After three years of pandemic cancellations, Jam Cruisers were excited to sail again, and anticipation was high even before we got on board the Divina, as we met friends on land to plan our “must-see” performances while at sea on Jam Cruise.
Sunday Feb 5 – preparty show at the Citadel
The Jam Cruise preparty was at The Citadel the night before, hosted by GMP Live (founded by Gideon Plotnicki of Brooklyn Comes Alive, who recently created the Miami’s North Beach Music Festival). Karina Rykman’s power trio headlined, with Butcher Brown and Tand supporting. Rykman’s unique punk-flavored rock blew the roof off of The Citadel, preparing us for a wild week. Butcher Brown, a 70s style jazz-fusion mixture of funk and hip-hop got the crowd going, with local south Florida favorites Tand opening the night.
Monday Feb 6 – Embarkation
Getting on the MSC Divina was fairly easy this year, in spite of pre-boarding concerns about delayed cruise documents. While in line, I asked Reed Mathis about his Electric Beethoven plans, since his long-time cohort Brian Haas was playing his first Jam Cruise. Reed said he invited five different drummers, and was looking forward to the experiment.
On the Pool Deck, it was heart-warming to see Captain Toast, Cloud 9, and fans hoist our glasses in solidarity. Joined by Cloud 9’s Founder Mark Brown and Director of Artist Programming Annabel Lukins Stelling (along with other Cloud 9 top staff), the Sailaway Toast prepared us for the opening band, George Porter Jr. & Runnin’ Pardners. A zesty “Cissy Strut” was launched, as fans dressed up for the Three Years of Sparkles (fan-voted costume theme) erupted. Jam Cruise Lifer extraordinaire, Karl Denson, surprised us on sax for Bill Wither’s “Ain’t No Sunshine”, with an island vibe.
I left to see Jason Crosby play a breathtaking solo piano set in The Atrium (majestic 5-story central lobby of the ship boasting opulent Swarovski crystal staircase). I soaked in Crosby’s fountain of notes, then hopped over to the Black and White Lounge to catch the fun psychedelic Jersey Shore rock band, Dogs in a Pile, a fun, relatively new band.
I caught a sample of the much-talked-about Vulfpeck/Cory Wong offshoot, The Fearless Flyers, in the Pantheon Theatre, including a flawless cover of Steely Dan’s “Reelin’ in the Years”. I went topside to catch our favorite funkmasters, Lettuce, on the Pool Deck, who met gale-force winds head-on with largely old school classics, adding a handful of new masterpieces, like “Vamonos| from Unify. As the wind lashed the stage, techs frenetically gaffed down mic stands, as expert riggers took down the huge speaker banners that were now dangerously flapping in the extreme winds.
Neighbor was another new band I’ve seen recently, another fan favorite on the boat. I caught Neighbor in the Black & White Lounge, then slipped back topside for on the best performances of the week, by Toronto’s finest, The New Deal. Weeks prior, TnD tapped Scotty Zwang, a talented drummer from Dopapod, Ghost Light, & RAQ, who clicked like clockwork with their unique form of livetronica.
I swung back to the Theatre for a little SunSquabi before going topside again for The Word, a superband comprised of John Medeski, Luther & Cody Dickenson, and Robert Randolph. Medeski played fiercely, with Robert & Luther trading off slide solos with southern heat. I ducked into the Jam Room for Cool Cool Cool, with many sit-ins (Kanika Moore and dozens of others – but I could barely see, being completely packed by 3am).
Around 4 am, I took the glass elevator up to the Galaxy Disco for DJ Brownie’s first night, with a surprise sit-in on vocals by Karina Rykman. Brownie thumped the disco until almost 5:30 am, but I wasn’t sleepy, so I wandered the upper decks searching for signs of life. I heard music, where I found a fellow Jam Cruiser, Ethan Alpert, who somehow got his DJ rig on the boat to mix a surprise pop-up set on the balcony above the Pool Deck. That was one of many random pop-ups that happen on Jam Cruise. My first night ended at 7:15am.
Tuesday Feb 7 – Day at Sea – Costume Theme: Decade You Were Born
Pixie & the Partygrass Boys opened the pool deck with their infamous “Appreciate Where You Came From”, as fans yelled, “Go Vaginas!”. Afterwards, The Lil Smokies imported Montana bluegrass to the Pool Deck, who Annabel announced them as “her favorite band”, hugging the band’s dobro player, Andy Dunnigan, then dancing with fans.
Bad Boy Bingo by Little Stranger ensued in La Luna with a hilarious diversion from music. At 4pm, Amy & Dave had their wedding in the Atrium. Having met on a past Jam Cruise, they invited friends and Jam Cruisers, and Annabel announced it over the ship’s intercom. The sound crew delivered a cordless mic to the couple, whose speeches invoked tears and laughter across the Atrium. Laughter & congratulations greeted the newlyweds afterwards on the Pool Deck.
Several friends got their 4th-year Repeat Offender robes, so I joined the robe ceremony happy hours on the back of the pool deck at the Garden Bar (a smaller stage & bar next to an infinity pool). Drinks and appetizers flowed, as old friends and Lifers hugged after years of separation.
The most anticipated band, Cymande, from the UK & founded in 1971, had not played in roughly 30 years. Cymande drove classic 70s pre-hip-hop funk to our eager ears, but their set was cut short by winds, and the pool deck stage closed for the rest of the day & night. Like before, Cloud 9 staff deftly rescheduled & rearranged bands throughout the ship.
The Fearless Flyers’ pool deck set was moved to the Atrium, where fans packed the house, since some of us missed their Theatre set the first night. Doom Flamingo was a blast, another recent band many hadn’t seen until Jam Cruise. They’re fronted by the powerful vocals of Kanika Moore, who deserves the MVP award for most appearances, bringing her intense energy & poise to every performance. Doom’s bassist Ryan Stasik delivered the low end, with fans packing in the B&W Lounge as music schedules realigned.
I caught The Sweet Lillies in the Atrium, who also hosts “The Spot” (a pop-up stage started by Nathan Moore, then handed over to the Sweet Lillies as caretakers, on Promenade Deck 7). The Spot is an acoustic jam circle, assisted by fans who boisterously sing along to popular favorites and occasional originals.
Fruition in the theatre was joined by the legendary Mike Dillon, who’s performed on every Jam Cruise but one, taking every band he plays with into another dimension, with his punkadelic-driven vibraphones and manic energy. Andy Frasco & the UN in the theatre were joined by Kanika Moore on vocals and Richard James on keys from Neighbor, with the band and fans erupting at peak moments, as band members ran all around stage.
Jam Room that night was hosted by Shira Elias and Lamar Williams, Jr, with Nikki Glaspie on drums, D.J. Williams on guitar, with horns from various bands, as well as Adam Deitch on drums, among many others. My night ended with DJ AirWolf in the Disco – another fulfilling day & night of fun!
Wed Feb 8 – Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic
I brunched on the ship, then strolled off the docks to check out local port facilities, finding tiki bars, squawking parrots, mischievous monkeys, then wandering further until finding the ginormous pool with swim-up bars. I ran into D.J. Williams, Brownie, and Dan Kelly (bassist for Neighbor), along with other artists and friends.The pool party was lit, and I got invited up to dance w/ Dan & friends in the middle of the pool to cheesy DJ music, partying just enough to not drown in the pool and make it back to the boat in one piece.
The Bamboos, a funk & soul band from Australia fired up the Pool Deck stage as everyone got situated back on the boat, and we sailed away from the DR, bound for Grand Turk. Just before this, Doom Flamingo had their new album preview at the back Garden Bar & pool. I caught Chris Spies on piano in the Atrium, joined by George Porter Jr, and many others.
Karl Denson’s Tiny Universe, another one of my all-time favorite bands, fired up the Pool Deck that evening. I caught a little more New Deal in the Theatre, then set camp on the couch right next to Reed Mathis in the Atrium for the most inspiringly creative “planned improv” on the ship, Electric Beethoven. Brian Haas, a friend of Reed’s for thirty years, was elated to be on Jam Cruise for his very first time.
Five masterful drummers, including Nikki Glaspie, Mike Dillon, Dave Watts, and Stanton Moore, all joined Reed on different Beethoven songs. I was lucky to catch the full set, sitting right next to Reed, watching the magic & mystery unfold in front of me. I caught the tail end of lespecial, another recent add to Jam Cruise, and another favorite of mine who I’ve seen a few times, even recently in DC.
Trouble No More is another new superband who tore up the Pool Deck around midnight, with deftly-delivered Allman Brothers classics by the young guitar prodigy Taz & his brother on bass, Daniel Donato on guitar, Jack Ryan and Nikkie Glaspie on drums, Peter Levin on keys, and the masterful pedal steel fury of Roosevelt Collier. They were also one of the favorite bands on the boat and had a big crowd topside.
However, George Porter Jr. & Dumpstaphunk were playing a full Meters set in the Theatre, and Trouble No More also had a Theatre set on Friday, so I cut over to the Pantheon for some Meters magnificence. I zoomed all the way to the back of the ship for a little Delvon Lamarr, but came back to The Theatre for another incredible Lettuce set, with better sound (vs the wind storm topside the first night). I got to the Jam Room very late for Shawn Eckels, but being packed again, I listened from the perimeter and called it an “early” night around 4:30 am.
Thu Feb 9 – Day at Sea – Mardi Gras – Dogs in a Pile, Mihali, Fruition, Everyone Orchestra, Butcher Brown, Dumpstaphunk, Punkadelic, Peter Levin piano, Galactic Pool Deck, The Lil Smokies Theatre, Joe Marcinek’s Dead Funk Summit, Doom Flamingo Pool Deck, Neal Francis Theatre, George Porter Jr. Jam Room, DJ Brownie
Purple, Green and Gold blazed in the wonderful sun for Dogs in a Pile on the Pool Deck to kick off day 4, followed by Mihali’s band’s repertoire of reggae-flavored originals. Matt Butler’s Everyone Orchestra performed an inspired set in the theatre with a wide cast of musicians & singers, while Lebo played acoustic at the back Garden Pool.
Fruition played a lovely set in the afternoon on the pool deck, followed by Butcher Brown, with a sit-in by Nigel Hall. Inside, Eric Benny Bloom treated us to humor and music with his Really Really Tacky Show. Honey Island Swamp Band played their rescheduled “Dark Side of the Swamp” in the Pantheon Theatre during the slot destined for The Broadband (which was unfortunately canceled).
After their smoking set, Dumpstaphunk performed a Mardi Gras style second line march off the pool deck main stage, out into the crowd, then down around back into the cafeteria, much to the delight of diners. Galactic then played, followed by Doom Flamingo on the pool deck, with The Lil Smokies and Neal Francis in the theatre. I strolled over to the Black and White Lounge to catch some of Joe Marcinek’s Dead Funk Summit, with George Porter Jr. on bass & vocals, who then hosted the Jam Room after. It was super packed, so I caught some of it, then headed up to the Galaxy Disco to see DJ Brownie’s 2nd set, who met with a comically ginormous bottle of champagne that was shared by friends.
Fri Feb 10 – Grand Turk – Andy Frasco and the UN, phoffman, Trouble No More, Ivan Neville piano Atrium, Dogs in a Pile Bikini Bottom Jam, Honey Island Swamp Band, Fackin’ A, Oteil & Friends Pool Deck, Cymande Theatre, Umphrey’s McGee Pool Deck, Karl Denson’s Tiny Universe Theatre, Taz Jam Room, DJ Yesmann
A jaunt off the dock brought us to pristine beaches in Grand Turk, where we swam with tropical fish 100 yards out. Vendors sold marginally cold beers, playing Biggie Smalls and other hip-hop legends, while catamarans patrolled the shore blaring cheesy dance classics. Some cruisers took taxis to find other bars & food at the Sand Bar and other local hangs, while a family of blue whales swam near the boat.
Back on board, Andy Frasco & The U. N. kicked off more insanity on the pool deck, while another catastrophe hit the Atrium in the form of Dogs in a Pile Bikini Bottom Jam, with a mixture of stunts, songs, and random acts of humor in a spin-the-wheel game show format, with Karina Rykman playing bass on Ween’s “Ocean Man”.
Ivan Neville packed in the Atrium for heartfelt solo piano set, followed by Greensky’s Paul Hoffman and his band on the pool deck. Taz’s superband Trouble No More fired up in the Theatre, while Honey Island performed “Dark Side of the Swamp”, with Pink Floyd classics, reimagined. Lespecial joined forces with Mike Dillon for Facn’ A in the Jazz Lounge.
Oteil and Umphrey’s closed out the pool deck Friday with inspired sets, while Cymande and Karl Denson’s Tiny Universe rocked the Theatre, with Taz hosting the Jam Room, and Little Stranger on the Brews at Sea Stage.
Saturday Feb 11 – day at sea – Neighbor, Karina, Yacht Rock, Dave Watts Super Jam, Umphrey’s McGee, Oteil & Friends, Butcher Brown, Costume Contest w/ Sammi & Shira, Silent Auction, SunSquabi, Galactic, lespecial, Roosevelt Collier Jam Room
Rising at 6 am, I fueled up, strolling to the back of the boat to find Touch of Class hosting the final winner-takes-all Kickball Championship, a yearly fan ritual. The Sports Deck was empty, so I searched the Garden Bar, finding another pop-up jam, Chris Sgammato’s Displace, a jazzy 4-piece delivering tasty funk to early-risers and up-all-nighters. After Safety gave Displace a half hour notice, we grabbed frozen drinks, heading up to the topmost deck to play kickball.
Neighbor opened the pool deck, debuting Burt Bacharach’s “What the World Needs Now Is Love”, then Karina Rykman played her best set on the final day as we soaked in the last rays of the tropical sun on board. During and after Karina, Paul Hoffman (Greensky Bluegrass) and Mihali played their own acoustic sets by the backside Garden Pool.
Dan Lebowitz’s Yacht Rock was the most fun set, playing Rupert Holmes’ “Pina Colada”, The Doobie Brothers’ “What a Fool Believes” (Jenn Hartswick), “Hey Nineteen” with Joel Cummins on lead vocals, “Somebody’s Baby” (Jackson Browne), Magic (Olivia Newton-John), Ivan Neville & Nigel Hall on George Benson’s “Give Me the Night”, “Lowdown” (Boz Scaggs) w Karl Denson on flute & vocals, with The Horn Section on all songs.
Dave Watts Super Jam hosted 46 musicians, possibly a new Jam Cruise record. Judith Hill and Kanika Moore brought their vocal prowess to “Higher Ground”. Midway through, Watts’ super jam covered Led Zeppelin’s “The Ocean” (appropriately) and “Trampled Under Foot”, but “Grease” was the crowd-pleaser, with Shira Elias singing lead vocals, backed up by Sammi & Josh, Mike Dillon on percussion, Adam Deitch and Scotty Zwang, and others.
The last night, Umphrey’s McGee played another two-hour-long set on the pool deck, with irreverent humorous banter and a song for Andy Frasco’s birthday (joking that his body’s ashes we’d line up to smoke later, briefly teasing B.O.C.’s Don’t Fear the Reaper). A pinnacle of their set was Radiohead’s “Creep”, with Kanika Moore adding her mournful voice.
One of the biggest jam conflicts, Oteil and Friends played around the same time as Umphrey’s in the Theatre, treating loyal fans to the ARU staple, “Fixin’ to Die” (Bukka White), with “Blue Sky” into Franklin’s Tower, Allman Brothers covers “Dreams” and “Hot ‘Lanta”, with Vaylor Trucks joining on guitar and Karl D on sax, finishing up with The Peacemakers’ original, “Rooster”. Galactic closed out the Theatre, while SunSquabi played their hottest set to close out the Pool Deck.
Roosevelt Collier hosted the last three-plus-hour-long Jam Room with his talented friends, including Taz, Shawn Eckels, D.J. Williams on guitar, with Adam Deitch on drums & percussion, Nikki Glaspie on drums, who also flexed her rap skills, along with Shira Elias and other vocalists, The Horn Section as well as members of KDTU horns, and many others.
DJ AirWolf closed out the disco, thumping us into dawn. Over-satiated and exhausted from seven days and nights of reckless abandon, we crawled to our rooms to pack and catch a few z’s before rising at 8:30 am to amble back to the vastly overrated land society that we sometimes call “civilization”.
Each year, I exclaim that this Jam Cruise was the “best one yet”, and this year was no exception. From the superb planned performances to the surprise sit-ins and random pop-up jams, there is really nothing like it on land or sea.
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